Dade’s Travel Log – Weingut Schmitges (Erden/Mosel)

September 22, 2010 by Dave

Andreas and Waltraud Schmitges have made serious progress in recent years with regard to their new winery and tasting facility in the heart of the small Mosel village of Erden. The new “Probestube” or, as they call it, “Vinothek”, is elegantly yet efficiently laid out with modest adornments, chique modern lighting, and tasteful artistic touches throughout. Coincidentally, their wines come off in a very similar way–bright, clean, polished, and very fresh.

Here are a couple of very dedicated and seriously focused people who are determined to make pristine wines, and have a good time while they’re at it. Two fully furnished apartments nearby are also available to guests, complete with a breath-taking view of the majestic Erdener Prälat vineyard–one of the worlds smallest yet most precious pieces of vineyard real estate.

We spent a good two hours or so tasting through the majority of the 2009 collection, and it is definitely state-of-the-art Mosel: opulent, fruity, mineral, and balanced by superb acidity…the hallmark of any great Mosel Riesling. While they own parcels in neighboring Lösnisch and Ürzig, the primary focus belongs to the finest vineyard sites of Erden: Prälat, Treppchen, and Herrenberg, comprising the majority of the 10 hectares they possess.

Believe it or not we were duly impressed by the first two wines Andreas poured us, which were a QbA trocken and a QbA feinherb from, of all formats, a litre bottle! They were absolutely delicious and very affordable. In fact, all the wines tend to be fairly priced. These folks believe in turn over, and that’s a good way to get hesitant foreigners, who are still grappling with a negative exchange rate, to come around to your wines.

It was indeed these more modest wines that caught our fancy. Wines such as: Treppchen Riesling “vom Urgestein” trocken, QbA feinherb “vom Berg”, and the Kabinett “vom roten Schiefer” (he calls it his “anti-stress wine.”). All his fruity higher Prädikat wines are stellar, and his Eiswein was clearly amongst the finest of all we tasted, and although I do not believe that ’09 is by any means a classic Eiswein vintage, this Erdener Herrenberg at 195 oechsle was the bomb!

But even better was a wine I had never encountered at this estate: a Grosses Gewächs from the Erdener Prälat, whose precious, golden fruit is normally reserved for only the noblest late-harvest nectar. These grapes were the very last ones to be brought in under perfect conditions with absolutely no rot whatsoever from vines that are 70 years old, yielding a mere 1,500 bottles total–an astounding achievement! The wine is uncannily rich, creamy and balanced to perfection yet not cloying, sweet, nor is it obtrusively alcoholic in the least–ONLY IN GERMANY!!!

Dade

To see all of our wines from Schmitges, type the keyword “schmitges” in the UPPER LEFT search box!

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Dade’s Travel Log – Erben von Beulwitz (Mertesdorf/Ruwer)

September 22, 2010 by Dade

In the spring of 2000, after several rather challenging appointments along side my agent and old friend, Agi Ress, that featured the new wines from the 1999 vintage, palate fatigue had set in, and it was time to check into our hotel, and take a break…phew! We’d been to Egon Müller, von Schubert, and von Kesselstatt, which should have been nothing short of endless pleasure, but the opposite had happened. The wines were often cloudy, very uneven, and, for the most part, totally out of whack–unbalanced. One would be too fat and top-heavy, the next shut down and going through an ugly, awkward infantile stage. We really weren’t sure what to think about ’99 as a vintage. Was it another ’76 with loads of botrytis or was it just a big fat, ripe year that stood little chance of aging, given its apparent lack of acidity and structure? It was very perplexing indeed, and difficult to assess.

When we eventually pulled into the Hotel Weis around 6:00PM, we got our room keys, and made a beeline for the bar, and immediately pounded two super-refreshing Bitburger Pilsners–ah, the day had been saved! Just then, the owner/manager, Herbert Weis, walked in, and asked us how our long day had gone. We launched into a dissertation on the myriad inconsistencies of the ’99 vintage from top producers when he quietly asked if we’d perhaps be interested in trying some of his own wines.

He indicated that they were all from one vineyard, the Kaseler Nies’chen (literally–”little sneeze”)–one of the Ruwer’s finest sites not owned by von Schubert or Tyrell–so we figured, what the hell? In a nutshell, we were completely flabbergasted!

The wines were beautifully balanced, crystal clear, racy yet elegant and totally clean–WOW! Where had we been all day? And by comparison to the creme-de-la-creme estates we’d been hanging around all day, the prices were a joke–essentially, a fraction of what the others were asking, and showing much better to boot! Ten years later these wines are still phenomenally good and incredibly fresh with years of life ahead of them.

Talk about backing into one–this is by far one of the greatest accidental, no-brainer finds of my career, and when we visited there in early May, we thoroughly toasted a decade of mutual admiration. DVW was one of the very first importers to bring these marvelous wines into the America, and we’re not about to stop now. Herbi’s ’09s are just as lovely, pristine and elegant today as those ’99s were in April of 2000. Classic Ruwer Rieslings with wonderful minerality, ripeness supported by racy yet delicate acidity like a inspired pianist accompanying a talented Lieder singer. Here is the epitome of finesse and subtle grace in a glass–it doesn’t get better, and it isn’t more reasonably priced!

Dade

To see all our wines from von Beulwitz, enter the keyword “beul” in the UPPER LEFT search box

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Dade’s Travel Log: Karthäuserhof (Eitelsbach/Ruwer)

September 22, 2010 by Dade

Boasting a wine tradition that dates back to 1223, it would be difficult to argue that Christoph Tyrell and company have a significant track record; indeed, a formidable one!

Our relationship goes back to the 1998 Trier Großer Ring auction, and purchases of Spätlese and Auslese Goldkapsel lots that are just now beginning to show their full potential; 1997 having been a glorious vintage in this tiny valley just a few miles away from the Mosel and Germany’s oldest city, Trier.

In the ensuing years, we have continued to buy Tyell’s scintillating, classic Ruwer wines at this annual Fall sale, and, because of an exclusive agreement with another major American importer, we have shied away from a more substantial position vis a vis his wines. Those days appear to be over, and as a result, we have taken a more serious view of what this amazing estate has to offer.

For those unfamiliar with Karthäuserhof, let me begin by saying that it is unquestionably one of Germany’s most important Riesling-producing properties with a glorious history of consistently excellent, typical Ruwers; meaning finely crafted, extremely elegant, jewel-like wines that have the uncanny ability to age for decades if properly stored. It is on a par with its venerable neighbor across the valley at Maximin Grünhaus–no small compliment!

Dade with the Tyrells in front of the estate vineyard.

When we tasted the 2009s in Eitelsbach, just around the corner from the Erben von Beulwitz estate, last May, the consistency throughout the range of driest to sweetest was utterly astounding, and absolutely true to the classic Ruwer type of Riesling: lacy, filigreed structure, infused with layers of mineral flavors and vibrant acidity. Don’t expect big, luscious, viscous examples of Riesling, even amongst the very ripest of them, because you will be disappointed. These wines are all about pretty, subtle, sexy, and not grotesque in any, shape or form. They are the epitome of restrained elegance and sheer finesse! You are strongly encouraged to indulge your senses in the pleasures that lie ahead in the beautiful Rieslings of the Karthäuserhof from the fabulous 2009 vintage! And don’t forget that many of the auction wines we’ve purchased since 1998 are still available, albeit in very small quantities, and will provide proof of their stunning ability to age gracefully. (A list of these wines is available upon request.)

Dade

To see all of our wines from Karthäuserhof, enter the keyword “karth” in the UPPER LEFT search box.

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Dade’s Travel Log – Toni Jost (Bacharach/Mittelrhein)

September 22, 2010 by Dade

When I think of this estate, located on the opposite side of the Rhein from Assmannshausen and Lorch near the not-so-famous village of Kaub, I immediately recall the totally ingratiating, Cheshire cat smile of owner/winemaker, Peter Jost, whose wines precisely reflect his utterly positive personality! Continue reading »

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Wine of the Week – Sept 19th

September 20, 2010 by Adam

2006 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Spätlese, $27

Of this week’s wine, Adam says “The Wine Gods were smiling on Fritz Haag during his 2006 vintage, and perhaps no other bottling benefited as much as his Brauneberger Juffer spätlese riesling. The excitingly juicy fruit profile of yellow peach and lime is framed by Continue reading »

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Dade’s Travel Log – Willi Schaefer (Graach/Mosel)

September 20, 2010 by Dade

The name Willi Schaefer evokes for me two things: consistency and class.

Another more sincere, dedicated, and nicer wine family is not to be found anywhere on earth–and when it comes to typical, classic middle Mosel, that is absolutely text book Schaefer, and his shimmering Rieslings from Graach are the epitome of it! Continue reading »

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Save the Date! Saturday 11/13 (Noon-4). Pre-Holiday Tasting & Sale

September 17, 2010 by Dave

“Sip While You Shop!”

Need corporate gift ideas? Wines for your holiday table? Gifts for a generous host or hostess?

Relax, we’ve got you covered. Just attend this tasting / retail bazaar featuring wines for your holidays. Continue reading »

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Dade’s Travel Log – Knebel (Winningen/Mosel)

September 15, 2010 by Dade

The most mind boggling aspect of this estate is their insanely steep, terraced vineyards that some poor Roman slaves had to negotiate back about two thousand years ago…only in Germany!

These people pride themselves in the intense labor, not to mention sheer risk, involved in producing wines from soil that is comprised of layers and layers of very slippery blue slate, and is so difficult to work that I am amazed that more casualties do not occur in any given year. In fact, last vintage saw Beate Knebel herself tumble from a loose rock wall, and end up in the hospital for four weeks during the peak of the October harvest when she was needed the most, and just after she’d celebrated her 50th birthday in July.

: Dade with Beate and Matthias Knebel

Imagine having to try to negotiate critical harvest timings, and manage picking crews while laid up in bed–she was beside herself! Nevertheless, thanks to her diligent son, Matthias, one of the finest crops ever seen at this small estate was brought in despite his mother’s disability, and the 2009 Rieslings from Knebel are indeed magnificent–a veritable triumph!

In 2000, Dee Vine Wines was the first company to import Knebel wines into the United States, and that was also the first time the Knebels had ever exported wines. In the past 10 vintages, we have seen changes in prices and exchange rates, but never in quality. These incredibly modest vintners go about their craft quietly and efficiently as they toil on these precarious rocky terraces comprised of very old vines (60-80 years and older!) that yield wines of great depth and complexity–a mere 45 hl/ha–while the average yields are generally much higher throughout the country’s finest wine growing regions.

: The tasting table at Knebel

They own 7 hectares of vineyards in the Uhlen, Röttgen, and Brückstück, which ends up becoming less than 4,000 cases when all is said and done. Traditionally, the dry wines had been made by Reinhard, who passed away in 2004, and the fruity/noble sweet wines by Beate. Since these classic fruity wines have tended to be the strongest focus of our market until just recently, her absolute mastery of such wines continues to be the marquee of the finest wines produced by this property.

As you might imagine, the 2009s are superb, and the same goes for the dry wines too–very sleek, elegant Rieslings with an attractive briny, sea-salty character that joins them beautifully with a wide range of dishes–particularly fish.

: Dade with the Knebels, modeling their new and improved label

The fruity wines are really special this year, and promise to age exceptionally well because they are perfectly balanced. These are classic Mosels that will reward the patient, but will also be immediately pleasing to those who simply cannot wait that long. And just wait until you see the new, totally-legible label that will grace each and every bottle of 2009 Knebel.

It’s the perfect way to inaugurate the next decade!

Dade

To see all our wines from Knebel, type the keyword “knebel” into the UPPER LEFT search box.

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Wine of the Week – September 12

September 13, 2010 by Chris

2003 Dom. Bouzereau-Gruere et Filles Corton Bressandes Gr. Cru. $96

Grand Cru Burgundy forms a cornerstone of any great cellar. Of this week’s wine, Chris says “One of the advantages of my job is the chance to taste great wine on a regular basis. I’ll remember this wine forever – light and elegant, with Continue reading »

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J. Wegeler Sale – Save 40% – 50% on fine German Riesling

August 31, 2010 by Dave

Save on Wegeler Riesling here!

History of Weingut Wegeler

Julius Wegeler was once export commissioner for the famous German sparkling wine producer, Deinhard. In 1882 he established his own winery in the Rheingau region, and in 1900 expanded his holdings with an acquisition of a large part of the world-famous vineyard Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard in the Mosel region.

Wegeler built his production facility in 1903 and it is the same facility Weingut Wegeler uses today. Anticipating one of today’s wine-making trends, the estate is gravity fed, thus avoiding the use of pumps which can rob the winery’s energy efficiency and damage to the grapes during the production process. Today this technique is considered “State of the Art.”

Wegeler’s Vineyards

When considering the world-famous, 8-acre Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard, one must think of Wegeler. Wegeler is its main proprietor, with 34% of its acreage under their care. The vineyard is situated on a peak with a south and south-west exposure that offers ideal ripening conditions, though it must produce groans from vineyard workers as they brace themselves against its 65%-70% slope. To put this into perspective, the vineyard is far steeper than most heart-pounding, Black Diamond ski runs, which begin at a slope of “just” 40%. This steepness offers excellent drainage, forcing the vine’s roots to probe ever-deeper for water and nutrients from the vineyard’s slate and loamy soil.

This famous vineyard takes its name from a legend that should be familiar to all fans of German wines. As the story goes, the Archbishop Bohenmond (Boemund) II was healed from a serious illness after drinking wine from this vineyard, and declared “the very best Doctors are the growers on this Mosel mountain.” From then on the vineyard has been known as the Bernkasteler Doctor.

Many centuries after the demise of the good Archbishop, when Julius Wegeler acquired his share of the Bernkasteler Doctor, he paid 100 gold marks per square meter – an exorbitant amount at the time. But his extravagance was justified by the quality of its wines which have long earned premium prices; for example, in 1963 a 1959 Wegeler Doctor Spätlese sold at a 29% premium over a 1959 Ch. Petrus (interestingly, both wines cost less than $14 at the time!).

In addition to this famous vineyard, Wegeler also owns parcels in other well-known Mosel vineyards: Bernkasteler Badestube, Bernkasteler Graben, Graacher Himmelreich and 6 acres in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr. All are very steep as well and entirely planted with Riesling. In total, the winery cultivates just over 36 acres of premium German vineyards.

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We are clearing some of our inventory, including over 50 wines from Wegeler, dating back to 1999, now available at 40% – 50% off our regular price.